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<text>
<title>
(1980) "God, I Want To Live"
</title>
<history>
TIME--The Weekly Newsmagazine--1980 Highlights
</history>
<link 00202><article>
<source>Time Magazine</source>
<hdr>
June 2, 1980
COVER STORY
"God, I Want to Live!"
</hdr>
<body>
<p>Mount St. Helens explodes, spreading death and destruction in
the Cascades
</p>
<p> "Vancouver, Vancouver, this is it!" The frantic warning was
radioed at precisely 8:31 a.m. on that fateful Sunday by Volcano
Expert David Johnston, 30, who had climbed to a monitoring site
five miles from Washington State's Mount St. Helens in the
snow-capped Cascade Range, 40 miles northeast of Portland, Ore.
He wanted to peer through binoculars at an ominous bulge
building up below the crater, which had been rumbling and
steaming for eight weeks, and report his observations to the
U.S. Geological survey center in Vancouver, Wash.
</p>
<p> Seconds after his shouted message, a stupendous explosion of
trapped gases, generating about 500 times the force of the
atomic bomb dropped on Hiroshima, blew the entire top off Mount
St. Helens. In a single burst St. Helens was transformed from
a postcard-symmetrical cone 9,677 ft. high to an ugly flattop
1,300 ft. lower. Clouds of hot ash made up of pulverized rock
were belched twelve miles into the sky. Giant mud slides,
composed of melted snow mixed with ash and propelled by waves
of superheated gas erupting out of the crater, rumbled down the
slopes and crashed through valleys, leaving millions of trees
knocked down in rows, as though a giant had been playing pick-up
sticks.
</p>
<p> At the moment of the explosion David Crockett, 28, a
photographer for KOMO-TV in Seattle, stood on a logging road at
the base of the mountain. He heard a huge roar and looked up
to see a wall of mud rushing toward him. Because of the
terrain, the flood divided into two streams that passed on
either side of him. Seeking desperately for a way out, Crockett
kept moving along the road, speaking into his sound camera to
record his impressions of the scene. Said he: "I am walking
toward the only light I can see. I can hear the mountain
rumble. At this very moment I have to say, `Honest to God, I
believe I am dead.' The ash in my eyes burns my eyes, burns my
eyes! Oh dear God, this is hell! It's very, very hard to
breathe and very dark. If I could only breathe air. God, just
give me a breath! I will try the radio. Mayday! Mayday! Ash
is coming down on me heavily. It's either dark or I am dead.
God, I want to live!"
</p>
<p> Crockett did live; a rescue helicopter plucked him off the
mountain ten hours later. But Johnston was never heard from
again. His campsite was strewn with boulders, broken tree
trunks and ash with the consistency of wet cement. By week's
end at least 18 people were known to have died in the eruption;
at least 71 were reported missing and feared dead. Among them
was Harry Truman, a crusty 84-year-old who lived with 16 cats
at a recreation lodge near Spirit Lake, about five miles north
of the peak. He had refused to leave weeks ago, he had told
national television audiences, because, he said, "no one knows
more about this mountain than Harry, and it don't dare blow up
on him." Harry was last seen on Saturday evening, watering his
lawn. Today the site of his camp is a steaming mass of mud and
water.
</p>
<p> Air Force and Army National Guard helicopters lifted 130
survivors to safety. Officials doubted that this count would
go up; the last person found alive on the mountain was flown out
on Tuesday. By Red Cross count, mud slides destroyed 123 homes
in the town of Toutle and its surrounding area, along with
bridges, roads and all other signs of human habitation.
</p>
<p> The eruption of Mount St. Helens, which began in a minor way
on March 27, was the first in the continental U.S. since the
Cascades' Mount Lassen, 400 miles to the south, spit up a shower
of mud and stones in 1914. Had last week's explosion occurred
in a heavily populated area, the loss of life would have been
awesome. Geologists estimated that St. Helens spewed out about
1.5 cubic miles of debris, a blast on about the same order of
magnitude as the one in A.D. 79 from Italy's Vesuvius, which
buried Pompeii and Herculaneum with ash and mud.
</p>
<p> As it was, the eruption blew down 150 sq. mi. of timber worth
about $200 million, caused an estimated $222 million in damage
to wheat, alfalfa and other crops as far east as Missoula,
Mont., and buried 5,900 miles of roads under ash. Clearing them
could cost another $200 million. The blast created a 20-mile
log jam along the Columbia River that blocked shipping between
Longview, Wash., and Astoria, Ore. Volcanic mud carried by the
river choked the harbor of Portland. Officials estimated that
the ports would lose $5 million a day until dredges could clear
a new channel through the silt, which in some places reduced the
depth of the harbor from 40 ft. to 14 ft. Not all the long-range
effects of the blast, particularly to the region's ecological
balance, can yet be calculated. For example, the eruption
killed a million fingerlings (baby fish) in a hatchery at
Toutle, and there were fears that ash on the leaves of plants
would interfere with photosynthesis, the process by which plants
turn sunlight into nutrients.
</p>
<p> As winds carried the eruption's debris northeast from the
shattered mountain, thick layers of ash, looking like dirty
snow, fell on eastern Washington. Yakima, a town of 50,000
located 85 miles east of the volcano, experienced midnight at
noon. The mining and ranching communities of the Idaho
panhandle and western Montana turned into ghostly towns in which
nobody could move about the dust-choked streets without surgical
masks or some substitute: handkerchiefs, bandannas, even coffee
filters strapped over nose and mouth with rubber bands.
Schools, factories and most stores and offices closed. Highways
were closed and airports were shut down because of near zero
visibility, stranding thousands of frightened travelers. Mail
deliveries were halted. Electricity was curtailed until workers
could clean ash from generators.
</p>
<p> Closer to the mountain, the eruption blasted twelve miles of
the once pristine north fork of the Toutle River into a lifeless
moonscape. Herds of black-tailed deer, bobcats and cougars used
to swarm through the valley's hemlock and Douglas fir; elk still
wandered in hopeless confusion through the ashen desolation.
The river and its source, Spirit Lake, once teemed with
steelhead trout and Chinook salmon. All were destroyed by the
eruption. TIME Correspondent Paul Witteman was one of the first
journalists to see the area by helicopter after the blast. His
report:
</p>
<p> "The Huey chopper, piloted by National Guard Captain Harold
Ward, went up the south fork of the Toutle, which had turned
into a caramel ribbon, toward the peak, still shrouded in clouds
of steam and ash. The mocha-colored terrain appeared
otherworldly, a madly undulating landscape. The trees looked
as if they had been strewn across the foothills by a careless
child. As we passed over Baker Camp, a logging base, we spotted
a pickup truck, a dead child lying face upward in the back.
Ward swung the Huey over a huge mudhole that had once been
Spirit Lake, a body of water so clear that it mirrored St.
Helens like a reflecting pool, then did slow loops around
another pickup truck on a nearby ridge. The truck's passenger
must have had a perfect view of the terrifying blast. Seconds
later, both passenger and driver were dead, probably from the
heat and poisonous gas. As the Huey made another pass, the peak
spouted ash 14,000 ft. into the atmosphere, a mini-replay of
Sunday's monster explosion."
</p>
<p> Within four days the worst was over--maybe. The dust had
settled in the heavy-fallout area, roughly from the ruptured
peak to as far east as Montana. Fine ash particles, mostly
glasslike silica, had spread in a gigantic, banana-shaped arc
in the stratosphere across the nation and will slowly dissipate
into invisible clouds after blowing round the world several
times. Outside the Northwestern U.S., people will probably
notice nothing more than some spectacularly colorful dawns and
sunsets over the next several months.
</p>
<p> But there was a possibility of another natural disaster. A
200-ft. wall of mud and ash from the volcano prevented the
waters of Spirit Lake from flowing into the Toutle River. Local
officials feared at first that the dam might suddenly give way,
sending backed-up water and mud flooding through the riverbank
towns of Longview, Kelso and Castle Rock, menacing the lives of
50,000 people. By the weekend, however, water was slowly
seeping through the mud-and-ash plug, and pressure on the dam
had eased.
</p>
<p> At the same time, there were further rumblings from Mount St.
Helens, indicating that molten rock was once again moving inside
the mountain. Geologists hoped that the monstrous blast had
vented sufficient gas to prevent another major eruption. But
they simply do not know enough about volcanoes to make any firm
predictions.
</p>
<p> Four days after the blast, President Carter decided to inspect
the devastated area. After a night in Portland, he climbed into
the first of a flotilla of eight helicopters, packed with
Cabinet officers, Senators, Congressmen and local government
officials, including Governors Dixy Lee Ray of Washington and
John Evans of Idaho. From the air Carter could not see the
still-smoking peak of Mount St. Helens. It was hidden by rain
clouds. But as his chopper flew at treetop level, he was
astonished by the colorless landscape.
</p>
<p> After his 1-hr. 15-min. tour, Carter excitedly told reports:
"The moon looks like a golf course compared to what's up there."
At a meeting with townspeople in Vancouver, the President was
being briefed by experts on the economic damage of the eruption
when Governor Ray interrupted. "This is all very interesting,"
she said, "but the top priority is people." Replied Carter:
"What do you need specifically?" Ray spelled out her answer:
"M-O-N-E-Y." In fact, before leaving Washington, D.C., Carter
had declared the mountain's vicinity a federal disaster area,
making residents eligible for low-interest federal loans to
rebuild their shattered houses and businesses. In addition, he
rather oddly suggested that residents might eventually make some
money from the catastrophe. Said he: "People will come from all
over the world to observe the impressiveness of the force of
nature. I would say it would be, if you'll excuse the
expression, a tourist attraction that would equal the Grand
Canyon."
</p>
<p> Mount St. Helens is something of a baby among volcanoes. It
was born a mere 37,000 years ago, which is scarcely more than an
instant in geological time. The mountain last erupted in 1857,
when the area was an uninhabited wilderness. Last week's blowup
ranked as middling, as volcanic eruptions go. But the people
who stumbled off St. Helens' slopes, or were plucked to safety
by helicopters, told tales that rivaled wartime survivor
stories.
</p>
<p> If the blast had occurred 24 hours later, it could have wiped
out a crew of some 200 Weyerhaeuser Co. loggers who were to
begin felling trees at 7:30 a.m. Monday. Many of the loggers
lived with their families near the north fork of the Toutle
River. Logger George Fickett was at home when the mountain
erupted. Said he: "I heard the goldangest noise, like someone
upending a bunch of barrels down the road. There was a roar,
like a jet plane approaching, and a lot of snapping and popping.
Those were the trees. We got out fast."
</p>
<p> On the mountain were several geologists, hikers and campers.
Those that rose with the sun reported that the morning was
exceptionally quiet; no birds sang. Oddly enough, when the
mountain blew, many of the survivors never heard the explosion,
perhaps because concussive waves can travel faster than sound;
by the time the sound reached them, they were too shaken to
notice it.
</p>
<p> Bruce Nelson and Sue Ruff, from nearby Kelso, had pitched
tents at the Green River campground with four young friends. On
Saturday they hiked through what Ruff called "an enchanted
forest of moss and pine" and then set up tents 30 miles from the
peak. On Sunday Nelson, Ruff and Terry Crall were beginning
morning chores when they felt a searing wind. Recalled Nelson:
"We were just cooking breakfast when my buddy said, `Oh my
God, the mountain blew!'" Ruff added, "We saw this thick
yellow-and-black cloud rushing toward us. I remember thinking,
`I should take a picture of it.' Then I thought we'd better
hide."
</p>
<p> Crall raced into a tent to wake Karen Varner, and Nelson
wrapped his arms around Ruff as trees fell around them and hot
ash rained down. Said Nelson: "We were buried. Then Sue and I
started digging our way out of the ash, which was so hot that
it burned our hands. Our mouths were full of mud. I told Sue
we were going to die, and she said, `Nonsense.'" As they
crawled out from under the trees and ash, they began to gag from
the gases in the air and had to cover their mouths with their
sweatshirts; stones hailed down and raised bumps on their heads.
</p>
<p> When at last the darkness began to lift, Nelson and Ruff began
looking for their friends. They saw nothing but ashes and logs
where Varner's tent had been; she and Crall later were found
dead. The two other members of the camping group, Dan Balch and
Brian Thomas, were alive--barely. Burned skin hung loose from
Balch's shoulders to his hands, and he was in shock. He was
unable to walk. Thomas, wearing only the longjohn bottoms in
which he had been sleeping, was lying dazed under a log. Nelson
and Ruff hauled him out, helped him walk to an old mine shack
nearby and built over the entrance a barricade of logs to
protect their friend from any further ash falls.
</p>
<p> Then Nelson and Ruff began what turned into a 15-mile, ten-
hour trek away from the mountain, over what Nelson calls a
"white-hot desert" of ash. They soon joined up with a 60-year-
old man. The three kept up their spirits by singing bawdy songs.
In late afternoon they heard helicopters overhead and waved some
of their clothes to stir up a dust cloud large enough to attract
the pilot's attention. They were rescued, and choppers soon
carried out Balch and Thomas as well.
</p>
<p> Roald Reitan, 19, and his friend Venus Dergen, 20, of Tacoma,
Wash., had been camping next to a good fishing hole in the
Toutle River, about 23 miles downstream from Spirit Lake. They
were awakened by a rumbling noise from the river, which was
covered by felled trees. The pair ran to Reitan's car, but water
from the rising river poured over the road, preventing them from
driving away. Then a tide of mud crashed through the forest
toward the car. Reitan and Dergen climbed to the roof of the
car. That got them above the mud, but only momentarily. The
mud slide toppled the car over the bank and into the river.
</p>
<p> Reitan and Dergen leaped off the roof and fell into the river,
by now a boiling mass of logs, mud, pieces of a collapsed train
trestle and what Reitan described as "hot bath water." Said he:
"I thought we had had it. Venus was stuck between logs, and
disappeared several times. I kept climbing over logs to reach
her. We were lucky that the logs opened up and I could pull her
out." The two were carried about a mile down the river before
a family of campers spotted them and heard Reitan calling for
help. It took the rescuers about 45 minutes to crawl across the
mud and logs and pull Reitan and Dergen to safety.
</p>
<p> Mike Moore of Castle Rock, Wash., his wife Lu and their two
daughters, four-year-old Bonnielu and three-month-old Terra
Dawn, were on a hike along the Green River trail, about 13 miles
north of Mount St. Helens, when the volcano erupted. "The sky
turned as black as I've ever seen, and ash and pumice fell on
us like black rain," said Lu Moore. "Then the air pressure
changed, and our ears went pop, pop, pop."
</p>
<p> The family scrambled into a nearby shack, waited two hours and
emerged to find themselves in a wasteland of ash and fallen
trees. They started off to find their car, but the trail had
been obliterated, and they had no idea where to look. So they
pitched a tent and settled in for what turned out to be a
30-hour wait, munching on survival rations from their packs and
sleeping on the ash. Around noon on Monday, an Air Force
helicopter pilot spotted them. Said the pilot, Sgt. Earl
Edwards: "The area they were in looked like somebody had
dropped the Bomb. I was shocked to see anybody there alive."
</p>
<p> Farther away from the mountain, Northwesterners who were never
in any danger heard what many at first thought were sonic booms
and then saw a spectacular--and frightening--drama in the
sky. Said Harvey Olander, a retired geologist who now cultivates
a 40-acre apple orchard outside Yakima: "I was working on an
irrigation ditch. The sky got dark, and I thought we had a
hailstorm coming. Then it got deathly still, and all you could
see through the darkness was the purple-pink glow of sheet
lighting." Said Chuck Taylor, a reporter for the Tri-City
Herald in Pasco, Wash., who was at the Hanford nuclear complex
140 miles from St. Helens: "It looked exactly like a tornado
bearing down."
</p>
<p> In Spokane, Wash., Jean Penna, 32, a corporate assistant at
the Sheraton-Spokane Hotel, was driving to Seattle when she
decided to stop first at her mother's home a few blocks from her
own. Said she: "In the time it took me to get from my apartment
to my mother's house, it went black. All of a sudden this powder
began to fall, just like snow. It was 75 degrees outside and
pitch black." When she left her apartment complex, she said,
several of her friends were sunbathing. "You've got people out
there sunbathing," she marveled, "and the sky starts falling."
</p>
<p> For all the devastation, however, the long-range effects--if St. Helens does not explode again--are likely to be less
drastic than was at first feared. Great though its force was,
the explosion was not so powerful as many volcanic eruptions of
the past, nor did it spill out gases as noxious as those released
by the more famous killer eruptions of history. Scientists
predicted that St. Helens will cause little long-range damage
to human health and the world's climate.
</p>
<p> People exposed to the dust, even hundreds of miles away,
suffered temporary discomfort: dry and itchy noses, throats and
eyes. Reported a resident of Missoula: "I feel like someone
popped my eyeballs out and rolled them around in a sandbox."
But most of the ash particles were too large to lodge in human
lungs and permanently scar them. Moreover, the dust did not
stay in the air long enough to cause silicosis, which is a lung
disease that miners, masonry workers, sandblasters and toilers
in similar occupations get from breathing dust-laden air over
long periods of time.
</p>
<p> The volcano is also producing fallout, literally. Geologists
noted that Mount St. Helens is venting radioactive radon gas in
greater quantities than any "hot" discharge from Pennsylvania's
crippled Three Mile Island nuclear plant. Fortunately the gas
has a short half-life (3.8 days) and quickly climbs high into
the sky before it can affect people.
</p>
<p> Volcanic dust in the upper atmosphere reflects sunlight away
from the earth and lowers temperatures. The cloud released by
the eruption of Mount Tambora in Indonesia was so dense that it
made 1816 in much of the U.S. "the year without a summer."
Nothing comparable is likely to happen because of Mount St.
Helens. Meteorologists estimate that its cloud of ash will
reduce world temperatures by only a tiny fraction of a degree
Fahrenheit--a deviation that will be too slight for people to
notice.
</p>
<p> The economic effects will be somewhat greater, but not
catastrophic. Though trees worth at least $1 billion were
flattened--including 4% of Weyerhaeuser's total timberlands--executives expect to salvage about 80% of the logs by sawing
those not badly scorched into usable lumber. Sportsmen who
venture into what was once prime fish and game area on the
mountain's flanks will find nearly all life wiped out within a
15-mile radius of the crater. The rivers and state-run fish
hatcheries near the mountain have been ruined as breeding
grounds for steelhead trout and Chinook salmon. Said Mike
Wharton, an employee of the Washington State department of
game: "We've lost millions of fish." When might the area
recover? Replied Wharton, 28: "Not in my lifetime."
</p>
<p> Crops within three miles of the crater were destroyed.
Downwind, in a triangular swatch stretching 200 miles to the
east, about 10% of the crops suffered some damage from the dust.
Several fields of alfalfa and wheat in eastern Washington were
flattened by the weight of ash. When wetted by rains, like
those that fell four days after the blast, ash on the ground
forms a thick cement-like glop that young shoots may be unable
to break through.
</p>
<p> Still, the overall damage to wheat in Washington, Idaho and
Montana, and to Washington's abundant cherries and apples, is
likely to be minor. Alfred Halvorson, a soil expert at
Washington State University, believes farmers will lose no more
crops than they would to a "very heavy dust storm." Some
scientists feared at first that the ash might produce a
devastating acid rain, but tests showed that the dust is about
as acid as orange juice. The ash contains no more sulfur than
ordinary rainwater does.
</p>
<p> Any shortfall in Washington wheat production should be made up
by bumper crops expected in Oklahoma, Texas and the Plains
states. Though wheat prices rose a bit on the Chicago Board of
Trade last week, at a time when they normally would be falling,
traders were worried not about the St. Helens eruption but about
drought in North Dakota.
</p>
<p> Except in the immediate vicinity of the mountain, livestock
escaped almost unscathed. State officials advised ranchers to
put out fresh hay so that cattle would not eat the dusty forage
in the fields. Ranchers were also told not to move their herds
to avoid increasing the cattle's breathing rate and thus their
intake of silica-laden dust. Breeders protected valuable race
horses by keeping them inside barns with towels over their
noses.
</p>
<p> Probably the most lasting and pervasive effect of the
eruption, outside the immediate area of Mount St. Helens, will be
the monumental nuisance of the cleanup. Volcanic ash fell in
amounts estimated at eight tons per acre in the Moscow-Pullman
area of Idaho, 300 miles from Mount St. Helens, and 350 lbs. per
acre in southwestern Montana, roughly 400 miles away. The fine,
gritty ash drifted into everything: aircraft engines, sewage
and water treatment plants, tractor gears, washing machines.
One official at Washington State University warned homemakers
to use only detergents when washing clothes because soap might
mix with ash in the water, forming a sludge that would
hopelessly clog the outlet hoses of automatic washing machines.
</p>
<p> Throughout Washington, Idaho and Montana, officials cautioned
motorists to stay off the roads except for emergencies because
the passage of an auto stirs up clouds of dust that blind other
drivers. Motorists also were advised to clean air and oil
filters every 20 or 25 miles. Some drivers tied pantyhose over
their cars' air filters to help keep out the dust. Nonetheless,
insurance companies will soon be deluged with claims from the
owners of countless autos whose windshields and finishes were
pitted by the ash.
</p>
<p> On streets and in backyards, the ash is also a headache.
At the airport in Spokane (pop. 250,000), which was covered by
half an inch of dust, a neon sign said: REJOICE, IT IS ASH
WEDNESDAY. City officials requested citizens to hose down the
streets in front of their houses, and the city council passed
an ordinance requiring residents to get rid of the ash in ten
days or face fines and short jail sentences. Said Evelyn
Erdely, 20, a student at Spokane Falls Community College: "I
have a cough, I'm sneezing a lot and I feel icky. My dad is out
with the hose washing off the house all the time."
</p>
<p> In Pullman (pop. 21,000), students from Washington State
University jammed the Barley and Hops tavern for "eruption
specials," $1 pitchers of beer. In Yakima, which was coated
with half an inch of dust, the owner of an auto body shop
jokingly put ash on sale for 50 cents per gal. but got no
takers. Hosing or shoveling the ash was only a slightly more
effective way of getting rid of it. Complained Yakima Mayor
Betty Edmondson: "Wet ash turns into a slurry that is just
about impossible to shovel."
</p>
<p> One of the hardest-hit towns outside the immediate vicinity
of the volcano was Ritzville, Wash. (pop. 2,000). A current of
warm, dust-laden air from the west collided with cold air from
the east and dumped 5 in. of ash on the town. Reported TIME
Correspondent James Willwerth: "If Spokane looked like an
ashtray, Ritzville looked as though it had been hit by an
avalanche. The town was caked in dust and mud. Streets had
2-ft. drifts. On South Adams Street, Mrs. Erma Miller's once
meticulously landscaped ranch-style house looked as if it were
in a desert. The lawn had disappeared almost completely.
Branches were broken from two formerly flowering hawthornes.
There was a 4-ft. drift on the patio. Said Mrs. Miller, leaning
on her snow shovel: `You ought to see the inside. You can't
keep the dust out.'
</p>
<p> "Within hours of the storm, 2,500 stranded motorists sought
refuge in Ritzville. Schools and churches were turned into
shelters; 81 people slept on the floor of Perkins Restaurant,
and many families took in strangers for a night or two. On
Tuesday morning Adams County Sheriff Ron Snowden let 75
motorists try to drive out, after a compressor at the firehouse
was used to blow the cars air cleaners free of dust. Only 20
made it. Twenty-five returned to Ritzville. The rest were
stranded on the highway and had to seek refuge at a rest stop.
During the worst of the storm, cars could run only about half an
hour in the Ritzville area before stalling.
</p>
<p> "Adams County Auditor Kim Yerxa estimated that cleaning up
Ritzville and the rest of the county will cost $2 million: the
annual budget is only twice that sum. To clear Ritzville's
streets, Sheriff Snowden directed a fire truck to spray the ash so
that a road grader could push it into 3-ft.-high dikes. They, in
turn, were shoveled up by road crews. But Snowden predicted that
it would be a year before the town is free of ash."
</p>
<p> For months ahead, residents of Ritzville and a large slice of
the Northwest will have to live with the ash, a visible reminder
of the titanic forces of nature that shape the earth. To volcano
experts Mount St. Helens may be a baby and its eruption second-
rate. But to the people in its path it was a catastrophe.
</p>
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